Surfers are in tune with nature and we do care for the environment.... really !!! However when the urge arises to escape the local weekend crowd at Nahoon Reef ( yes we call 8-10 crowded) we tend to lose sight of this deep connection with nature and conserving energy seems to be less important at this time .
A regular 3 ball crew ( sometimes only a duo ) we often set out to appease the surf demons in our old minds that haunt us each day. Sometimes to the degree where any work required for that day or any family responsibility is overlooked.
Windguru , Magic seaweed , and that Norwegian weather site that you just discovered , are all consulted at arms length , on the mobile screen that has become more difficult to read than the contra-indications on your blood pressure medication.
The morning Surf check at Nahoon Beach Break turns from lamenting the current lack of sand banks there into a heated debate surrounding the very technical breakdown of the forecast sites. Any bystander would be excused for thinking this is a small group of scientists trying to resolve the global warming issue and ocean currents encroaching on the local seafront coffee shop.
Some time passes and abdication of responsibility eventually points all fingers to the driver of the day to " put us on the waves " ,,,, No Pressure!!!
We either head East or West ( never inland) searching for the perfect days surf.
The journey is filled with speculation of what we will find and the wave theory blends into blaming the current Government for restrictions on surf travel , damn fuel costs and drifts back into near future dreams of perfect surf. Recently one of the " learned trio " even got deep enough to ask " why do we surf ? There is not enough space here to document the list of responses. But an addiction was agreed upon and blamed for our wasteful habits, and so its was that we continued West.
Often along the way when heading out West to one of the "chosen spots "we pass Eastern Beach on our main city beachfront. A quick pull over and a short debate as to whether we should join the 3 or 4 locals tucking into near perfect barrels.
Debate rages on..." I'm sure that other spot will be better " or yes its good but looks shifty or difficult or maybe crowds are on their way. So off we go heading west as patrons of the fuel wasting oil company supporting hard core well aged surf trio.
Its not difficult to guess how this ends most times , arrival at " The Spot" is often accompanied by some very low pitched grumbling under ones breath that if deciphered often includes " told you we should surf Eastern Beach" or jeez I cant believe its this size , or many theory propping statements that try and absolve the "Joint " decision to blow out another tank of fuel , earning another small share one of our struggling energy providers. This often subsides and we agree " at least the break is empty"?( like our tank)
Things are often made worse while we publicly bare too much while squashing into the wet-suite , and a few beach goers will unashamedly pass comments like " shouldn't you be playing with your grand children " often with a too harsh response blurted out in response to the eighty year old local that makes one feel bad for the next 2 minutes at least.
But sometimes it all lines up and an epic day is offered up to the energy sapping ( in many ways ) old patrons of the weekend wave hunters trio , (or duo) and these are the ones we remember. I'm glad to be a part of it.The good days are imprinted over the bad and keep us driving East or West to trade our fuel company share for another epic day along the East London coast.
See you on your next visit to East London and its wave rich coast . Stay at Riversway Guest house www.riversway.co.za and join us on a weekend wave hunting adventure.
A regular 3 ball crew ( sometimes only a duo ) we often set out to appease the surf demons in our old minds that haunt us each day. Sometimes to the degree where any work required for that day or any family responsibility is overlooked.
Windguru , Magic seaweed , and that Norwegian weather site that you just discovered , are all consulted at arms length , on the mobile screen that has become more difficult to read than the contra-indications on your blood pressure medication.
The morning Surf check at Nahoon Beach Break turns from lamenting the current lack of sand banks there into a heated debate surrounding the very technical breakdown of the forecast sites. Any bystander would be excused for thinking this is a small group of scientists trying to resolve the global warming issue and ocean currents encroaching on the local seafront coffee shop.
Some time passes and abdication of responsibility eventually points all fingers to the driver of the day to " put us on the waves " ,,,, No Pressure!!!
We either head East or West ( never inland) searching for the perfect days surf.
The journey is filled with speculation of what we will find and the wave theory blends into blaming the current Government for restrictions on surf travel , damn fuel costs and drifts back into near future dreams of perfect surf. Recently one of the " learned trio " even got deep enough to ask " why do we surf ? There is not enough space here to document the list of responses. But an addiction was agreed upon and blamed for our wasteful habits, and so its was that we continued West.
Often along the way when heading out West to one of the "chosen spots "we pass Eastern Beach on our main city beachfront. A quick pull over and a short debate as to whether we should join the 3 or 4 locals tucking into near perfect barrels.
Debate rages on..." I'm sure that other spot will be better " or yes its good but looks shifty or difficult or maybe crowds are on their way. So off we go heading west as patrons of the fuel wasting oil company supporting hard core well aged surf trio.
Its not difficult to guess how this ends most times , arrival at " The Spot" is often accompanied by some very low pitched grumbling under ones breath that if deciphered often includes " told you we should surf Eastern Beach" or jeez I cant believe its this size , or many theory propping statements that try and absolve the "Joint " decision to blow out another tank of fuel , earning another small share one of our struggling energy providers. This often subsides and we agree " at least the break is empty"?( like our tank)
Things are often made worse while we publicly bare too much while squashing into the wet-suite , and a few beach goers will unashamedly pass comments like " shouldn't you be playing with your grand children " often with a too harsh response blurted out in response to the eighty year old local that makes one feel bad for the next 2 minutes at least.
But sometimes it all lines up and an epic day is offered up to the energy sapping ( in many ways ) old patrons of the weekend wave hunters trio , (or duo) and these are the ones we remember. I'm glad to be a part of it.The good days are imprinted over the bad and keep us driving East or West to trade our fuel company share for another epic day along the East London coast.
See you on your next visit to East London and its wave rich coast . Stay at Riversway Guest house www.riversway.co.za and join us on a weekend wave hunting adventure.
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